Notes on the Days

I have not spent my days roaming Cairo just yet, but last night my supervisor, tour guide extraordinare, took me on a walking introduction to downtown Cairo that I could not have done quite on my own. We started after work, innocently enough, at a juice bar, where plenty of Cairenes partake in the freshness of the fruit lot or traditional pressings such as sugar cane, which I sampled. Light in flavor and sweetness! I was surprised. We walked into the depths of the downtown district that is both residential and commercial, busy and bright (but not as tall) as Times Square. As the night set in, more and more people showed. The sidewalks and streets don't get too busy until after dark--I imagine because it is much cooler later. Or for whatever reason--maybe the ice cream is better at that point, and nobody passes up the sweet treat. It's one big feeding frenzy around the carts attached to the pastry shops. And old glory, it was refreshing and good once it finally made it to my tongue.

The buildings downtown, as with the buildings in my neighborhood, are quite huge and 19th century French in style. It is, to borrow Steve's observation, as apt at the book title--Paris on the Nile--but crumbling. And the interiors of them are incredible. Wide marble stairs leading to floors with 20-30 ft ceilings and wide, wooden door frames. Some of these places become apartments, some have been old restaurants or clubs for specific people, such as Italians or Greeks. There are plenty of stories how things once existed here, when downtown was popular among writers and foreigners. Still quite fascinating, it does not play the role of "host" as much any more. Of course, plenty upon plenty of Egyptians continue to live, shop and (somehow) breathe (the thickness of the haze is quite astounding) in every corner. You can find more quiet streets, and, as mentioned in a previous post, a contemporary art gallery much like PS1 in NYC--tall white, and warehousey.

The heat thus far has not been unbearable at all, but of course I am at work all day. I've been out to lunch each day, been shown places on campus and local shops, many of which are not for seating, as a seated eating culture is more rare than expected in this city. I've got plenty, plenty more of exploring to do. Let this not be any final word or explanation of the life I see and live thus far. Now that my digestive system has sent the raiders of the lost bacteria packing, and I have basically overcome the jet lag, I'm ready to find out how things get done around here.