Adventures continue in Cairo! Unfortunately, I am stuck on a dial-up connection in my apartment, and I have yet to transfer photos onto a faster computer. SO, all you have here are 2 lovely shots of Al-Ahzar mosque. The interior photo is the madrasa, known as the oldest university in the world. Beautiful, all around. But that was last week! In a city that has defined many ages in the recorded history of our planet, I have been doing a lot of catch up. The archival manuscript part of my work takes me into Cairo between the wars and into World War II; the other half introduces me to photographs of Islamic architecture that may not exist anymore or provides a glimpse of a building as it existed before the country began national restoration projects. This is quite an amazing way to learn of a city in the modern age because I have to research all aspects of the historic--from religion to politics to art and architecture--to understand what I am reading and looking at. Laying down these tracks of history next to what I already know, I do believe the English speaking world (of Western persuasion) does not fold perspectives on this region and its relationship to the development of the 'world' into history at any level worthy of praise.
And now, back to the touring log: recently, I was on the Nile in a felucca, a one-mast boat with the famous whistful sail that reaches high and gracefully curves in from the bow. There may not be a more appropriate thing to do than take an evening sail with wine, mezzes and friends after work on the last day of the work week. Felucca rides are common for anyone, locals and tourists alike, any day of the week, even for birthdays and weddings. I am kicking myself for passing my first month here before I boarded a felucca. The Hudson River could use some of these.
And finally, she went to the Giza Pyramids! I cannot wait to post the wonderous photos of the Pyramids with Cairo in the background. No matter how you slice it, there is no separating the past from the present. Though we could have taken a taxi, we took the Metro to Giza, which is really just another neighborhood, practically its own borough, of Cairo. After hitching a ride on a minibus, we ended up at the camel depot, bargained for a good rate, and hopped on the lanky beasts for our final approach to the Giza plateau. Sneaking in through the back fence of the pyramid grounds on a camel that I am sharing with my 10 year old guide is like, uh, hmm, climbing up the Great Wall of China without paying the entrance fee? Well, ok, not that physically challenging.
It being August, there is no way to avoid the heat. Likewise, being the desert, there is hardly a way to avoid the sun. I was surprised, however, at the light breeze coming across the sands, making the dry, hot air pleasantly, well, albeight, arid. A welcome respite from the clamorous, muggy city. I didn't go into the pyramids, but we view the Solar boat, a huge (huge!) wooden boat built for transport into the afterlife. It was found in the ground next to the main pyramid, excavated and reassembled in a building which mimicks the shape. The planks and oars of this thing are immense--to be on the Nile in that thing after work one day!
Saturday me and a couple mates entertained ourselves at the Egyptian Museum. Some things of note: the Tutankhamen display and Royal mummy room. (Mom, some of the pieces from Tutankhamen are on loan for the US tour you saw. The necklaces and breatplates are really something). So many pieces of Ancient Egypt are housed at this museum it is really hard to take it all in, especially because it is crowded and un-airconditioned. I saw cuneiform tablets--the first known diplomatic records kept in the earliest known written language. A real pilgrimage in my professional world. Seeing these was one of the greatest, geekiest things I have done yet.
Though my life seems to be operating on automatic pilot these days, none of this would have been possible without all of the great folks on the ground level, those that speak Arabic (and are teaching me the colloquial way), who know this city either because they were raised here or have lived from 5 months to 5 years in the city. My love for you continues like the sun! And to everyone back home who supported me with words and generosity. Thanks a million ~ Alf Shokran.
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